Boulder Climbs: Altitude Lies About Tracker Heart?
By Franklin Everett ShawForget the treadmill. Forget the gym. Let’s talk about heart rate while you’re clinging to a granite face 50 feet above the ground in Boulder Canyon.
Wrist-worn heart rate trackers are ubiquitous, but are they reliable when you’re pulling hard on tiny crimps at 5,430 feet above sea level? The answer, unfortunately, is a resounding “it depends,” but leaning towards “probably not as much as you think.”
Let’s dissect why.
Wrist-worn trackers use optical sensors (photoplethysmography, or PPG) to measure blood flow. These sensors shine a light into your skin and measure the amount of light reflected back. Changes in blood flow correspond to your heart rate. This works reasonably well at rest or during steady-state activities like running.
However, rock climbing in Boulder presents a perfect storm of factors that can throw these readings off.
First, altitude matters. Boulder’s elevation means less oxygen in the air. Your body compensates by increasing your heart rate to deliver the same amount of oxygen to your muscles. A wrist-worn tracker might struggle to accurately differentiate between this altitude-induced increase and the actual exertion from climbing.
Second, climbing isn’t a steady-state activity. It’s characterized by short bursts of intense effort followed by periods of relative rest. These rapid fluctuations in heart rate can be difficult for wrist-worn trackers to capture accurately. The lag time in the sensor’s response can lead to underestimation of peak heart rate and overestimation of recovery periods.
Third, and perhaps most significantly, is wrist flexion. When you’re gripping holds, your wrist is often bent at extreme angles. This constricts blood flow to the wrist, interfering with the optical sensor’s ability to get a clear reading. Think about crimping on a V4 at Flagstaff Mountain; your wrist is anything but relaxed.
Fourth, cold temperatures, common in Boulder Canyon, further constrict blood vessels in the extremities, reducing blood flow to the wrist and impacting sensor accuracy.
So, what’s the alternative? Chest strap heart rate monitors.
Chest straps use electrical sensors to directly measure the electrical activity of your heart. This method is far more accurate and less susceptible to the factors that plague wrist-worn trackers. They provide real-time data, capturing rapid changes in heart rate with greater precision.
Let’s compare the two. I spent a week climbing at various crags around Boulder – from the sunny south-facing walls of Eldorado Canyon to the shaded routes at Clear Creek Canyon – wearing both a Garmin Forerunner 945 (wrist-worn) and a Polar H10 chest strap.
The results were telling. During sustained, less technical climbs, the wrist-worn tracker performed reasonably well, staying within 5-10 beats per minute (BPM) of the chest strap. However, during more intense, bouldery routes, the discrepancies were significant. The wrist-worn tracker consistently underestimated peak heart rate by as much as 20-30 BPM.
For example, on a particularly challenging sequence on a 5.12a at the Monastery, the chest strap recorded a peak heart rate of 185 BPM, while the wrist-worn tracker only registered 160 BPM. This is a huge difference, potentially leading to inaccurate assessments of exertion and recovery.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to comparing your own wrist-worn tracker to a chest strap:
- Choose a route: Select a route that you find challenging but can climb consistently.
- Wear both monitors: Ensure both the wrist-worn tracker and chest strap are properly fitted.
- Climb the route: Focus on climbing smoothly and consistently.
- Record the data: Use a smartphone app or watch to record the heart rate data from both monitors simultaneously.
- Analyze the data: Compare the peak heart rate, average heart rate, and heart rate variability (HRV) data from both monitors.
Common mistakes to avoid:
- Loose fit: A loose-fitting wrist-worn tracker will be less accurate.
- Incorrect placement: Ensure the chest strap is positioned correctly, just below your pectoral muscles.
- Ignoring data spikes: Look for sudden spikes or drops in heart rate that don’t correspond to your perceived exertion. These are often signs of inaccurate readings.
So, what can you do with this information?
First, understand the limitations of your wrist-worn tracker. Don’t rely on it for precise heart rate data during climbing, especially in challenging situations or at altitude.
Second, consider using a chest strap for more accurate monitoring, especially if you’re training for climbing or want to track your progress.
Third, learn to interpret your heart rate data in the context of your perceived exertion. Pay attention to how you feel, and use your heart rate data as a supplementary tool, not the sole determinant of your effort level.
Fourth, adjust your training and recovery strategies based on more accurate heart rate data. If you’re consistently underestimating your exertion, you might be pushing yourself too hard or not allowing enough time for recovery.
Finally, remember that heart rate is just one piece of the puzzle. Factors like sleep, nutrition, and stress also play a significant role in your climbing performance.
Climbing in Boulder is a unique and demanding activity. Understanding how altitude and the specific physical demands of climbing affect your heart rate data is crucial for optimizing your training and performance. Ditch the wrist-worn tracker for serious training, and embrace the accuracy of a chest strap. Your body (and your climbing) will thank you.