**Santa Fe Skin: Is Desert Air Ruining Retinol?**

By Franklin Everett Shaw

August 6, 2025

Don’t let the Land of Enchantment turn your skin into the Land of Disenchantment. Retinol, the gold standard for anti-aging, can be a tricky customer, especially in Santa Fe’s unique high-desert environment. Many believe the dry air and intense sun render retinol useless, or even harmful. But that’s simply not true. With the right approach, Santa Feans can harness retinol’s power without sacrificing their skin to the desert gods.

The biggest challenge? Counteracting the dryness. Santa Fe’s average humidity hovers around 40%, which is significantly lower than what skin needs to thrive. Retinol, by its very nature, can further exacerbate dryness and irritation. This is because it speeds up cell turnover, which can temporarily disrupt the skin’s natural barrier function.

So, how do we combat this? Hydration, hydration, hydration. And not just drinking water (though that’s crucial too!). We need to focus on topical hydration that works with retinol, not against it.

Here’s a step-by-step guide tailored for Santa Fe residents:

1. Start Low and Slow: Don’t jump into the deep end with a high-strength retinol. Begin with a low concentration (0.01% to 0.03%) retinol serum or cream. A great option available at many Santa Fe pharmacies and skincare boutiques is the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%. While technically an acne treatment, adapalene is a retinoid that’s often better tolerated than retinol, making it a good starting point. Use it only 1-2 times per week initially.

2. The "Sandwich Method": This is your secret weapon against dryness. Apply a layer of hydrating serum before your retinol, and then another layer after. Think of it as a retinol sandwich. For the pre-retinol serum, look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides. The CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, easily found at Target on Cerrillos Road, is an excellent and affordable choice. For the post-retinol layer, a thicker, more emollient cream is ideal. Vanicream Moisturizing Cream, available at most drugstores in Santa Fe, is a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic option that won’t clog pores.

3. Embrace the Humidifier: This is non-negotiable. A humidifier adds moisture back into the air, directly combating the desert dryness. Place a humidifier in your bedroom and run it while you sleep. Aim for a humidity level of around 50-60%. You can find decent humidifiers at Walmart on Zafarano Drive. Clean it regularly to prevent mold growth.

4. Sun Protection is Paramount: Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. This isn’t just a summer concern; the New Mexico sun is intense year-round. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every single day, even on cloudy days. Reapply every two hours, especially if you’re spending time outdoors. Look for mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, as they are generally gentler on sensitive skin. EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 is a popular choice and can be found at some local dermatology offices and medical spas. Don’t skimp on application; you need about a shot glass full for your entire body.

5. Listen to Your Skin: Redness, peeling, and irritation are signs that you’re overdoing it. Reduce the frequency of retinol application or try buffering it with more moisturizer. If irritation persists, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. Dr. Jane Smith at Santa Fe Dermatology is a reputable option.

6. Product Recommendations Tailored to Santa Fe:

   • Cleanser: A gentle, hydrating cleanser is key. Avoid harsh soaps or foaming cleansers that can strip the skin of its natural oils. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser is a classic for a reason and readily available at Walgreens on St. Michael’s Drive.
   • Retinol: As mentioned, start with a low concentration. Once your skin tolerates adapalene, you can graduate to a retinol serum like The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion, available online or at some Ulta Beauty stores.
   • Hydrating Serum: CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a great starting point. For a splurge, consider SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier, available at select medical spas.
   • Moisturizer: Vanicream Moisturizing Cream is a solid, affordable option. For extra hydration, try Weleda Skin Food, available at Whole Foods Market.
   • Sunscreen: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 is a favorite. Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen Sensitive is another good mineral sunscreen option.

7. Don’t Forget the Lip Balm: Retinol can also dry out your lips. Keep a hydrating lip balm with SPF on hand at all times. Aquaphor Lip Repair is a reliable choice.

Common mistakes Santa Feans make with retinol:

• Using it too frequently: Starting with daily use is a recipe for disaster.
• Not using enough sunscreen: The New Mexico sun is unforgiving.
• Ignoring signs of irritation: Pushing through irritation can damage your skin barrier.
• Using other harsh actives at the same time: Avoid combining retinol with AHAs/BHAs or strong vitamin C serums in the same routine.
• Expecting overnight results: Retinol takes time to work. Be patient and consistent.

The desert air doesn’t ruin retinol, but it does require a more strategic approach. By focusing on hydration, sun protection, and gradual introduction, Santa Fe residents can successfully incorporate retinol into their skincare routine and achieve healthy, glowing skin, even in the driest of climates. Remember, consistency and patience are key. Don’t give up! Your skin will thank you.